Olympic Mountains Loop
Day 3



We were in for a real change on day 3. It was cloudy but dry as we packed up camp at Marmot Lake. It is only 1.2 miles from the lake to O'Neil Pass. At 4950' it would be the highest point of the day. Clouds swirled over the pass and into the valley. The hike over to the pass was on grassy slopes. lots of colorful fireweed was blooming. We also saw western anemone seed heads. They look like blond heads and nothing like the flowering stage. We arrived at the pass at 8:40 am. It was cool but not too cold. The trail rounds the bend and heads north high above the Enchanted Valley. We had looked down on it the previous day from the ridge top saddle. That day we were in bright sunshine looking down to clouds. This day we were completely in the clouds. That would not change all day long.

The foggy clouds gave the terrain a very different feel. Like a complete change from the two previous days. The cool was even refreshing. The route is varied. At times on steep sidehills and at times entering a number of basins.  Much more variety than I was expecting. The trail is a long way from any trailhead and it does not get a lot of maintenance. It has sloughed in places and can be very narrow because of it. A few places have collapsed leaving some big steps to get back on grade. For the most part though, it is in reasonably good shape. On my hikes I sometimes see pink Lewis monkeyflower. Usually alongside streams. On rare occasions I see yellow Tiling's monkeyflower. This hike was most unusual. We saw a little pink monkeyflower but a whole lot of the yellow variety. Probably as much as I've seen in 33 years of hiking combined. Every little dripping creek seemed to be lined with yellow. Most of the basins along this stretch were full of it.

O'Neil Pass is at 4950'. 7.4 miles further the trail ends at 3300' at the junction with the route from the Enchanted Valley to Anderson Pass. Half way along we seemed to have not lost any elevation. Ups and downs but not much change. Then things became more interesting. The trail became very grassy. Very high grass in long meadows. Then the rain started. There is no way to stay dry in those conditions. And we did not. About 52 degrees and soaking wet brush plus falling rain. Only one day earlier the mid 80s heat was getting to me. Well, we did have a real variety of weather. Umbrellas and rain gear helped but there was no way to stay dry.

We reached White Creek at about six miles from O'Neil Pass. It was a little tougher to cross but not too hard. Soon after the trail reached camping sites and then seemed to disappear. A path went stright ahead then petered out. Another went uphill and ended. The GPS software suggested we should go straight ahead. There was a dry rocky creek bed here. We went back looking for a missed turn. The tread was minimal in thick wet grass from the crossing of White Creek. No other trails were seen. We were stumped. Finally Gary noticed a cut log down the rocky creek bed. Yep, that is the trail.  It looked to be at least knee deep in the spring. Down the creek we went and soon left it on obvious trail. At the campsites where the trail seems to end, go down the middle of the creek.

Now the trail began to descend in a hurry. Many switchbacks dropped us down to the junction with the trail to Anderson Pass. Just before the junction we met the first person of the day. We was heading to O'Neil Pass. The trail now climbs about 1200' in 1.6 miles. The rain stopped and we began the uphill slog. We met a party with minimal gear heading down. They were day hiking from the Enchanted Valley. A little later we met four women backpacking up the Dosewallips and down the Quinault. We inquired about campsites. Camp Siberia just below Anderson Pass was our planned spot. They said Honeymoon Meadows was much better. With the lousy weather we had already been kicking this idea around.

We reached 4464' Anderson Pass at 3:05 pm. It was gray and misty but not raining. On my one previous visit I day hiked up from the Enchanted Valley on a sunny Memorial Day weekend hike in 1992. There was several feet of snow at the pass. I headed up to the glacier to enjoy a great views. That was not going to be the case this day. We went by the .9 mile glacier side trail and headed down. We met another couple here who did not seem to be having a good day. Now thoroughly soaked we headed downhill to find more tall wet brush and a rocky trail. Not what the doctor ordered. We stopped at Camp Siberia and found no campers. The shelter was tempting as it would provide a dry spot for dinner but we continued down the trail. 1.6 miles from the pass we reached the LaCrosse Pass Trail junction. That would be our route the next day. We dropped another .30 miles to Honeymoon Meadows. At the campgrounds there was one solo hiker. We found a good spot for all three tents. We set up camp and it rained lightly as we ate dinner. By 7:10 pm we headed to our tents. It was a long night.

For the day we hiked about 12.5 miles with 2600' of elevation gain.

231
Leaving Marmot Lake
234
O'Neil Pass Is Ahead
237
Big Waterfalls
250
Blooming Fireweed
256
Western Anemone
257
Clouds Near Pass
261
What Views?
262
O'Neil Pass Sign
267
Misty Trail
272
Wildflowers
275
Indian Paintbrush
276
Stonecrop
277
Misty Color
289
Wet Web
295
Basin In The Mist
297
Another Basin
302
Twiling's Monkey Flower
304
Flowers In Creek Bed
312
Still Smiling
318
More Fireweed
323
Ripe Berries
325
Great Color
339
Big Gully
340
Umbrella Is Out
343
White Creek
345
Creek Bed Is Trail
347
Fungi
348
Beware Of Bears
349
Junction Sign
353
More Clouds
357
Anderson Pass
358
Old Signs
361
Even More Fireweed
366
Honeymoon Meadows
369
Night 3 Camp
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Olympic Mountains Loop Report

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